Monday, March 8, 2010

Ankle Deep In Dead Dogs

     
     About five weeks left in Korea and it's going fast.  This is the second week that school is in session and I still don't have any classes scheduled.  The entire English staff is new here and only one of them can speak with any level of proficiency.  I think they are so confused with the new school, new government implemented teaching methods, and the construction that actually scheduling me to work is the least of they're worries.  There is a part of me that really wants to get back in the classroom and actually do some teaching but if I'm going to get paid to work on my writing projects, catch up on some novels, and drink coffee then I'm not going to complain.  Well, aside from the usual weekend distractions a few days ago I also managed to go on the longest and most interesting hash thus far.  Allow me to tell you about it with a drastic switch in tenses.  
     For the first twenty minutes the pack runs a confused circle through the dowdy neighborhood, an impoverished area hugging the back walls of the base, the last bit of settlement before the endless farm fields across the highway.  A "true trail" marker keeps bringing us back to the rear gate of the airfield from which we started.  Unlike the front gate a few miles away which is busily celebrated with traffic and bars and storefronts, this entrance is orderly, quiet, and resists attention.  Taking notice of our confusion, a camouflaged guard shouldering an M-16 informs us that he saw a hare leaving a marker close to the bus stop across the street.  Another hasher spots the checkpoint under a car and within an instantt the 40 strong pack is dashing through gardens and off into the moor like countryside.  
     We run through fields and rice patties, woods and shrub covered hills.  An abandoned rusty bulldozer sits on the abandoned scar of an incomplete road that leads to the abandoned construction of several half-finished and degrading houses.  We follow the chalk and toilet-paper markers over crumbling brick, broken glass, rusted siding, nail-strewn 2X4's, and finally past an active farm where a sizable pen of smelly cows scatter at our hollering advance.  As the miles disappear behind us the excitement of the finish line grows and we press harder and faster.  Eventually a turkey-eagle split cuts the pack in half.  Some walk across muddy flat lands, the rest sprint up through a dense forest rifled with prickers and vines.  The shape of a crumbling cement structure materializes through the foliage and upon approaching it we see the word BEER scrawled on a wall above several carefully deposited bottles.  I stop long enough for a few mouthfuls of water but leave the Cass untouched before taking off again across a barren highway.  
     In the adjacent orchard the trail leads down into a stream and we follow, halting when we reach a cement embankment twenty meters tall.  The creek trickles underground into a tunnel barely four feet high. Scrawled above the mouth of the opening are the taunting words ON-IN-YA.  I hesitate for a moment while looking into the dark.  I can see a pin-spot of light barely visible several hundred yards through the blackness.  Without  another second to reconsider I plunge myself into the hole and make my way rapidly down the corridor.  Moments later I am ankle deep in mud and sewage.  There is no avoiding it.  When we were kids my Dad used to yell at us for playing in corrugated run-off pipes and now, in the dark, his exaggerated warnings about flash floods casually come back to me.  I exit the other side safely and climb up onto the damp, grassy bank.  My feet are soaked through and  mud is splattered up to my knees.  There are only four of us who braved the pipe and we take off single file through another stretch of unplanted fields.  
   We are coming over a small rise when I notice something unusual about the ground.  Unlike the dark, fertile soil we've been trudging over for the past several miles, this terrain is soft, white, and comes up in clumps that sticks to our cross-trainers.  I look around and can see that this strange substance covers the ground for at least 20 yards in every direction.  I am wondering to myself why it took me so long to notice this very peculiar incongruity when we happen upon the first of the corpses.  Dogs.  At least twenty of them in a late stage of decay, deflated and blending into the ground.  It is a mass grave of canines.  Then it occurs to us that the white tuft stuck to our shoes and ankles is the rotting matter resulting from years of dead animals decomposing on this spot.  I am surprised that I am not overcome with horror.  Instead, my head calmly fills with questions.  Why so many?  Were they used for fighting?  Why weren't they eaten?  Why dumped so carelessly instead of buried?  We press on.
   Eventually the trail brings us to an abandoned playground.  Small fruit trees grow in and around old sliding boards and swings.  There is something sinister about this place, sitting deserted and alone under an overcast sky.  We continue through mud and low grasses until we reach a subway platform where, having neglected to bring my wallet, I guiltily hop the turnstile.
   Before long we're back at the Lion's Den, commemorating the past 8 miles with Red Rock and fraternity humor. Later in the night I'll make my way to Hang Dae, where my inclination towards awesomeness late in the evening will only be exceeded by my infallible tendency to make an ass of myself early in the morning.    
  
Cool Thing About Korea #48:  Jeong Ji-Hoon, better known as Rain, was the lead role in Ninja Assassin, which was probably one of the greatest cut-em-up action movies I've ever seen. 

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Back to Work...In Theory.

     The cold spell finally broke here in Korea and while people I know in North America are suffering through perpetual snow storms, I've been running around Topdong in gym shorts.  With the weather being the way it is I've finally been able to get back to Chilbo San for the first time in nearly two months.  Man I love going to that place.  The brisk run past black flooded farm fields waiting to be seeded.  The hasty climb over muddy rocks and roots through the tranquil wooded mountain side.  Perching myself on the summit and gazing out over the metropolis rippled terrain laid out before me.  Many afternoons, before taking on the bustling crowds and ceaseless nightlife of Seoul, I go there simply to clear my thoughts and tire my body.  I stand up on the ridge line facing north with the wind in my hair, pondering the future and the past.  People I've affected for better or worse.  Things I'm proud of and things I regret.  Where I'm going and where I've been.
     
     With so many people leaving or moving over the past few days there were quite a few reasons to push the usual excitement of a Korean weekend to the next level.  Friday was nothing but good times until my shoes were stolen in a luxury norebang but on Saturday I won a thick wad of cash throwing dice at Go Gos.  Maybe there is balance in the universe.  What else can I say about the awesome clubbing scene in Seoul except that I'll miss it?  It's going to be difficult to re-acclimate myself to the phony Irish pubs, yuppie jazz bars, and hick-ridden beer joints that have a 2am last call in Pennsylvania.  I've gotten too accustomed to partying until sunrise amongst a mega-diverse influx of world citizens in a city of endless possibilities.  
     
     Monday of this week was a holiday celebrating Korean independence from Japan.  I wasn't expecting fireworks, hot dogs, or any of the usual conventions I associate with liberation from an oppressive foreign power, but I was still pretty disappointed when I found that Koreans don't do anything at all to commemorate the occasion.  Can't complain about having a day off though.  Called my mother to wish her a happy 38th birthday, did some laundry, pushed some weight around at the gym, and joined a few of the local Topdong girls for raw tuna.  
     
     So after more than two months of contributing absolutely nothing that can be considered productive the students have finally returned to school and I'm ready to work.  I can't tell you how excited I am to end this monotonous routine I've slipped into and actually teach classes again.  I have lesson plans prepared, I've ironed my office attire, hell...I'm even coming to work freshly shaven for a change.  But unfortunately, it doesn't look like I'll be getting into the classroom anytime soon as that part of the building is still in shambles due to the ongoing construction.  I guess, until further notice, it's back to reading e-books, playing flash games, surfing collegehumor.com, and opening my mind to any other distractions that promise to make the day go by faster.  

Cool Thing About Korea #47: Suhyup Bank. Fresh Bank. Fresh Fish.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Mid-February


There is still absolutely nothing for me to do at work. Factor in a complete absence of English conversation, the Neil Young discography, and an entire pot of coffee and you have a recipe for introspection. As soon as wandering around in my own thoughts gets claustrophobic I'm switching over to King Crimson and Nightquil. I'm not even exaggerating about having no work to do. The past two days I started the morning hanging out with the janitors, cranking K-Pop, drinking soju, and smoking cigarettes. I'm not even a fan of drinking before noon and I hate cigarettes but it's better than eight hours of YouTube and my boss actually approves. Do Korean tax payers realize that this is where their hard earned money is going?

Lunch today was a pleasant surprise. Lately it's been spicy fish-soup by delivery, but today one of the secretaries interrupted the janitors and I in the middle of a paper-airplane contest and asked if we wanted to join the "special lunch plans." Was I in a position to say no? After a half hour ride in a fleet of those micro-buses the thirty or forty of us in attendance arrived at a spacious raw-fish restaurant. Lunch must have been about seven courses and included oysters, mussels, pajeon, baked corn, kimchi, two large trays of raw sashimi, tessa, shark, halibut, live octopus, eel, several other types of delicious yet unidentifiable fish, budae jjigae, and this wonderful bamboo liquor that tastes just like apple juice. I remember only months ago when I'd hesitate to dine on such fare but now I salivate over it.

My buddy Mike scored a motorcycle a few weeks ago for about $200.  It's a Daelim Magma 125cc.  At first it wouldn't start because it needed a new battery.  On Monday night we got the idea that we could push it up to speed in the parking garage and then pop the clutch to make the motor turn over.  It didn't work so Mike just bought a battery on Tuesday and we spent the afternoon cruising it around the neighborhood.  I have to admit that he got his money's worth of fun out of the thing.  It's a completely awesome bike with a surprising amount of get-up-and-go for the amount of engine displacement.  Here's a little clip so you can see what passes for a hog here in the ROK.


Cool Thing About Korea #46:

The Juan T. Trippe which was the second Boeing 747 ever made and the first to be flown commercially is now a rundown restaurant in a random Korean suburb.  I've been meaning to go track it down and take pictures for sometime now but lately I get the feeling that its just not going to happen.  Still, you can see a ton more pictures here.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Early February

I suffered some rather nasty abrasions to my left foot while I was in Thailand.  After the incident, due to innumerable distractions and a temporary lapse in judgment, I decided against seeking medical attention, instead settling on a few generic band-aids slapped carelessly over the pink, gaping wounds.  For one reason or another I thought walking around a sanitation-challenged third world country in nothing but leather flip-flops, after an impressive chunk of epidermis had been sheared from my metatarsals would yield no negative consequences.  Unsurprisingly, I developed quite a petri-dish of infection which soon spread to my calf and then knee in the form of swollen, black lesions.  By the time I took myself to a clinic in Korea the doctor on staff could only look at me with unamused condescension while stumbling through a limited English vocabulary for phrases like "stupid", "moronic," and "you could have died."  He cleaned me up pretty well and proceeded to write me a prescription for some hardcore antibiotics.  Then a Korean nurse injected three 4" needles of god-knows-what into my rear end.  She must have had magic fingers because the only sensation I can recall was not the prick of the needles, but the firm caress of her experienced hand slapping my taught buttocks.  So did I learn something?  Two things actually.  Blatantly ignoring obvious medical hazards in a humid cesspool of a country can develop into a fantastic story and, thanks to socialized medicine, the extensive treatment and antibiotics that I'm receiving on a daily basis over the next two weeks only costs me about $14.  At these prices how can you afford not to get sick in Korea?

Managed to get some skiing in last weekend.  The mountain we went to was pretty awesome based solely on my novice standards.  Couple good black diamonds that were challenging, yet approachable.  Not like some of the sheer drops I've stared down on Whiteface of Killington that only cause me laugh at the prospect of descending them with anything short of climbing gear and ice shoes.  There were, predictably, a ton of Korean's littering the intermediate trails, and while some would complain about the crowding, I found dodging the human obstacles to be satisfying unto itself.  Here's a group shot with some of the alpha snow-boarders I hit the slopes with.
Slushy snow falling from the sky today.  Nothing like the blizzard I keep hearing about back home in PA.  Also there is talk going around about an earthquake in Seoul yesterday but I didn't feel anything.  Students have been in the building all week because the third graders graduate to high school tomorrow.  I had about five classes over the course of the week and I was actually thrilled to interact with the kids again.  It's been too dull around here lately.  Played a cool auction game that was inspired by Mary-Beth.  Props MB!  You'd be surprised how crazy 12-year-olds go for fake paper money.  Well, I got a five day weekend starting in a few hours.  Here's hoping that whoever you are, wherever you are, your life is as enjoyable as mine.

Cool Thing About Korea #45:  Canadians:  I meet more Canadians in one month in Korea than I ever did my whole life in the States...and let me tell you that they are a charming, intelligent, and sexy group of people.  Here's a slew of funny Molson commercials passed on to me by my stunningly attractive Canadian valentine and in honor of all my fantastic Canadian friends. 







Wednesday, February 3, 2010

What I'm Watching at Work Today

Lots of reasons to be happy this week but the one that most directly influences my future state of affairs is the fact that I've been accepted to engineering school. Up until a few days ago I had no post-Korea plans. I thought I might hang out back home all summer and then split to California or the South Pacific until I ran out of money. Now, instead of squandering my savings as a nomadic vagabond I'll get to squander it as a fun-loving college student. Who said the party is over?! It's nice to have direction in life once again. I'll get to put those student-loans back on deferment, move back in with my buddies, and get a dollar off at the movie theatre, all while developing the technical skills that will ultimately propel me towards being a captain of American industry.

Work is great here in Korea. There are no classes until March so I'm getting paid to sit at my desk and surf the Internet. That's right, 40 hours a week of selective mind-numbing brain-fodder via inorganic, electronic over-stimulation. Try not to be too jealous. Here's what I've been viewing today:














And the list goes on, but that's what I manged to get in before 10 a.m.  Well, got a hot date tonight.  Here's hoping that your day was as productive as mine.









Friday, January 29, 2010

Thailand Part 2

On the morning that Matt and I left Koh Pagnon we were shook down by the police for a large sum of money and threatened with prison.  I'm not going to discuss the details of the incident but perhaps people who've known me for a long time can form a few theories.  "What could Eric have done to be extorted by the authorities in Thailand?"  Here's a picture of me sending out an SOS the moment I could make international calls in Koh Phi Phi...and some beautiful pics of the island itself.

Front row seats for Thai Boxing at the Reggae Bar.
 
Monster Mid-Afternoon Mojito
 
Cargo ship parked right on the beach
Floating Market
My Trouser Snake
Two snakes get pretty heavy.
This 4 year old male weighs in at over 400 kg.
Hey Mom and Dad...who knew that all you had to do to get me to smile in childhood photographs was to sit me next to half a ton of muscle and teeth?

Bridge over the River Kwai...for all you history buffs.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Thailand Part 1

Thailand is awesome.  The people you meet.  The scenery.  The attitude.  It may be the coolest place I've ever been.  Highlights thus far include the nightlife at Kaohsan Road in Bangkok, getting a bungalow on the beach for $10/day, fighting elephants for bananas, racing motorbikes across an island that has no DUI/helmet laws with a pack of foreigners at 1am because you are dedicated to a mission, and having a bar deep in the jungle open up just for you and the people you're with despite the uncivilized hour.  This place is somewhere that I can see losing myself in for years.  And many people do.  I can't tell you word for word how excellent every part of my day is here.  I can't possibly weave a narrative that would help you come any closer to understanding the magnitude of this place.  You've either been here and experienced it...or you're stuck looking at other people's vacation photos.